Born 1869 in Saint-Denis, French fashion designer Jeanne Paquin trained as a dressmaker at Rouff and later opened her own fashion house in 1891, the first woman to ever do so. The Maison Paquin quickly became known for its Eighteenth century-inspired pastel evening dresses and tailored day dresses, as well as for its numerous publicity stunts, including organizing fashion parades to promote her new models and sending her models to operas and races in order to show off her designs.
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Fashion designs by Jeanne Paquin in the 1950s |
Paquin also frequently collaborated with the illustrators and architects Leon Bakst, George Barbier, Robert Mallet-Stevens, and Louis Süe for the creation of stage costumes, the publication of dress albums and the decoration of her private residences, reinforcing her reputation as a thoroughly modern designer.
Paquin withdrew from the House in 1920, leaving the administration with Henri Joire, and the artistic direction to Madeleine Wallis. The direction of the House later returned to Colette Massignac who was able to adapt the style of the collections to the popular “New Look” of the 1950s. In 1953, the Maison Paquin purchased the French branch of the House of Worth, but financial difficulties forced the House to close down in 1956.
Known for her resolutely modern and innovative designs, in her time, Paquin had a prestige equal to that of Charles Frederick Worth and Jacques Doucet but is nowadays largely forgotten. These vintage photos captured portraits of classic beauties wearing fashion designs by Jeanne Paquin in the 1950s.
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Jackie Stoloff in black silk crêpe dress printed with large blue butterflies, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1950 |
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Maxime de la Falaise in a dress she designed for Jeanne Paquin's boutique and accessorized in her own inimitable style, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1950 |
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Maxime De La Falaise wearing fish-tailed striped gown by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, January 1950 |
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Model in beautifully executed coat of black organza falling from a rounded yoke in alternating bands of sheer organza by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950 |
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Model in black wool coat with astrakhan collar and long scarf by Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950 |
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Model in short mink bolero with large stand-up collar and ample 3/4 sleeves, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950 |
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Model in wool coat-dress diagonally folded over cinched with patent leather belt by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1950 |
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Sylvie Hirsch in mauve silk shantung suit, yellow gloves and hat complete the Spring ensemble by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1950 |
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Anne Campion in elegant gray wool dress belted in tan suede, worn under a mink-lined jacket by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951 |
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Bettina Graziani in violet wool suit, jacket is fitted with boldy notched lapel, skirt is bell shaped, blouse in tortoise shell silk, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951 |
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Lucky in cleverly draped bodice with long sleeves and wrapped skirt that folds through on the right hip accentuating the asymmetry, in black jersey, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951 |
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Model in silk shantung and velvet dress from a Vogue Pattern designed by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Robert Randall, Vogue, October 15, 1951 |
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Model in small check taffeta-satin suit by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Skillford, 1951 |
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Model in white linen suit with fitted jacket and straight skirt by Jeanne Paquin, Paris Vogue, August 1951 |
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Model in yellow wool jacket worn over yellow and gray striped wool dress by Jeanne Paquin, hat by Claude St. Cyr, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951 |
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Shelagh Wilson in double-breasted, tobacco-colored tweed suit with large round collar that can be worn flat or up, felt hat, all by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Richard Dormer, Harper's Bazaar UK, November 1951 |
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Sophie Malgat in elegant black alpaca suit over deep rose silk blouse lined in same deep rose by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1951 |
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Anne Gunning in white chiffon dinner dress, the bodice is intricately draped and gathered over one shoulder, draping continues over the hips where it falls in soft pleats, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952 |
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Anne Gunning is wearing a rose organdy strapless dress with red taffeta coat by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952 |
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Model in pale pink satin gown with dark rose satin manteau by Jeanne Paquin, Paris Vogue, May 1952 |
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Shelagh Wilson in softly cut suit in black barathea, jacket just covers the hips, skirt is straight and accordian-pleated at the hem with black sailor hat, all by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Richard Dormer, Harper's Bazaar UK, May 1952 |
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Sophie Malgat in elegant mottled tweed jacket, black braid highlights the neck and front panel, narrow fabric belt marks the waist, skirt is cut on the bias, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1952 |
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Anne Gunning in blue on white floral print afternoon dress of raw silk, a white wide-brimmed picture hat completes the ensemble by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953 |
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Anne Gunning in dress designed by Jeanne Paquin, Vogue, November 1, 1953 |
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Fiona Campbell-Walter in jasper flannel dress with knitted top by Jeanne Paquin, Elle, October 19, 1953 |
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Geneviève is wearing a slim-fitting dress of navy wool with diagonal fastening by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1953 |
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Joan Whelan in white silk surah pleated dress worn under a short green wool jacket bordered in white by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953 |
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Model in lemon yellow. light-weight wool suit, perfect for Spring, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1953 |
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Model in raw silk print dinner dress, the asymmetrical neckline is pulled to the side in large bow, by Jeanne Paquin, sheer violette covers the model's face, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1953 |
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Teresita Montez in textured blue wool coat, draped with black astrakhan collar, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, Paris, 1953 |
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Model in cinnamon jersey dress featuring crossed buttoned tabs worn with matching jacket lined with leopard fur by Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1954 |
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Model in mastic figured piqué redingote, the fullness outlined by brown kid martingale, by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1954 |
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Ivy Nicholson in late-day dress and short jacket of black and white faille designed by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Karen Radkai, Paris, Vogue, June 1, 1955 |
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Anne Campion in sheath embroidered in sequins and paillettes worn with an organza coat by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1956 |
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Model in silk-mohair blend dress and matching coat by Jeanne Paquin, photo by Georges Saad, 1956 |
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