26 Stunning Portraits of Egyptian Women From Cairo in Traditional Dress From the Late 19th and Early 20th Centuries

Egyptian culture has six thousand years of recorded history. Ancient Egypt was among the earliest civilizations and for millennia, Egypt maintained a strikingly complex and stable culture that influenced later cultures of Europe, the Middle East and other African countries. After the Pharaonic era, Egypt itself came under the influence of Hellenism, Christianity and Islamic culture. Today, many aspects of Egypt’s ancient culture exist in interaction with newer elements, including the influence of modern Western culture.

Egyptian women’s traditional dress from the late 19th and early 20th centuries reflected a blend of Ottoman, Mamluk, and local Egyptian influences, with regional and social class variations. Here are some key elements of their attire during this period:

1. The “Melaya Lef”: A large black shawl or wrap worn over clothing, particularly by urban women in Cairo and Alexandria. Often made of silk or cotton, it covered the body modestly and was sometimes paired with a headscarf. Some women added decorative elements like embroidery or beads.

2. The “Tarboush” and Head Coverings: Elite women often wore a tarboush (fez) with a long sheer veil (yaşmak), following Ottoman trends. The mandil (headscarf) was commonly used in rural areas. More conservative women used a “burqu” (face veil) made of fine netting or silk, especially in urban settings.

3. The “Yelek” or “Tob”: A long, loose-fitting dress, often with long sleeves. Made of cotton, linen, or silk, depending on the wearer’s wealth. Embroidered versions were popular among wealthier women.

4. The “Gallabeya”: A simpler, everyday dress, mostly worn by rural and lower-class women. Often brightly colored in contrast to the darker urban styles. Typically paired with a headscarf and simple jewelry.

5. Accessories and Jewelry: Women adorned themselves with silver and gold jewelry, including bracelets, earrings, and necklaces. Kohl was used for eye makeup, and henna for hand and foot decoration. Wealthier women wore fine embroidered shoes, while rural women often went barefoot or wore simple leather sandals.